Look into the Future: Fall 2009 Footwear

Before the tidal wave of New York Fashion Week broke, footwear designers were debuting their Fall 2009 footwear collections at WSA last Thursday, 2/12 through Saturday, 2/14 in what turned out to be a not-so-balmy Las Vegas.
It will probably come as no surprise that there was no shortage of chatter about how the economy was going to affect the show, and in some kind of parallel to Fashion Week there were plenty of footwear brands who had backed out of showing this year in order to cut costs…or worse.
Yes, the show was quiet in comparison to years past. Yes, there were anxious murmurs and hushed questions posed to fellow attendees asking how everything was going. Â But it wasn't all bad. An effort to scale back in light of recent events has forced footwear designers and fashion designers alike to produce edited, well-thought out collections.
Like it or not, the extravagance and excessiveness of seasons past just isn't going to cut it right now…and maybe not for a long time to come. We, consumers and those in the footwear industry, are in for some changes. The important part is looking for the light at the end of this depressing tunnel. For instance, as the Kaiser of fashion Karl Lagerfeld said himself of the effect the economy is having on fashion as a whole, "I think it's a difficult moment for a lot of people and a lot of things, but in the end it was really needed, because it [had] really gone too far. I see it like a healthy thing, a horrible but healthy thing. I see it as a medical treatment of the world." Â (Daily Telegraph, 1/26/09)
However, for the most part the brands and designers I met with at WSA were optimistic to say the least. Â And while a footwear line requires much more lead time to produce than a clothing line and so there was less time to turn the heavy ship that was the Fall 2009 collections around, there was obvious streamlining that for the most part seemed to do many brands well.
The incredibly eclectic mix and 'more is more' attitude of Spring '09 was restrained if not absent, but in its place there were well-refined collections. Key styles that had worked for Fall '08 were back but updated. Colors were tight without being boring. A focus on creating an emotional connection with the customer was paramount. Even comfort was important. (See below for a detailed account).
So where is footwear headed? If the brands and designers I met with have anything to say about it, the market for $800 shoes is waning drastically. But contrary to what you might think, it's not because they believe the female this footwear is created for doesn't have the cash – it's that she doesn't want to be that woman dropping more than what some spend on a mortgage on a pair of shoes. So what will she do? She'll keep shopping, but she'll put more thought into what shoes she's going to purchase. She'll still require style, she'll really want quality, but she'll be conscious of price. So that $800 may still be spent, but now it will be on 2 to 3 pairs instead of one. ( 'Twice the product, half the guilt!')

The way I see it, of the countless brands out there the ones who already create original, beautiful, and truly quality designs at un-outrageous price levels may weather this storm. Of course there are numerous factors ranging from big to small that are out of their reach, like the price of the dollar and how the retail giants fare, but after all it's often times like these that forces the cream to rise to the top…
But before you bid the Louboutins and Manolos 'adieu', don't be too hasty. There's something too magical about those red soles and the feeling of owning a shoe designed for Carrie Bradshaw to be lost. Instead I believe we should expect to see smaller, more limited collections and perhaps not such outrageous materials being used. There will always be a market for footwear made by the masters. It's just shrunk a bit.
Before you read any more of my postulation on the future of the footwear industry, let's remember why you're here: to find out about Fall's styles! So even though we're not quite out of Winter's grasp, far from escaping our economic woes, and have only just begun to think about Spring, I ask you to travel a full season ahead in time with me and explore a brief synopsis of the major trends to expect for Fall of 2009.
Color & Texture – Fall colors are naturally more toned down than Spring's, but it seems this was evident more so now than ever. We still managed to find bright spots though…
- Elephant grays, shades of brown ranging from ecru to wheat, and of course black were staples
- Don't be dismayed if you are a fan of color. I witnessed a lot best described as being pulled from a peacock. Dark purple, deep blue, emerald green were present just about everywhere, and even some lemon and golden yellow were seen like at Tibi. Â Also look for dark shades of red and maroon.
- You'll still find colorblocking, but using shades like those detailed above so the contrast is naturally more subdued than what you're finding now for Spring.
Tweeds and materials like satin and grosgrain popped up consistently lending dimension and texture. Tartan plaid like at Bettye Muller was a welcome and unexpected addition.- Craving something fun and exciting like a continuation of the neons you're seeing now for Spring? Check out Ruthie Davis' DAVIS by Ruthie Davis line of creative, sexy, sky-high heels with an obvious nod to graffiti (one of these shoes comes complete with an actual graffiti print).
Style – Many shoes demonstrated extensions of Spring's themes like super-strappy forms, uber-high heels, and futuristic influences. You'll be happy to know that last Fall's slouchy boots, riding boots, and platforms will carry you through this Fall as well.
- Boots, boots, and more boots for one. Riding boots, motorcycle-inspired, military-inspired, ankle boots, over the knee boots (both flat or dominatrix-y)…you'll even see a little cowboy influence.
- The sky-high heels of Spring will continue into Fall, and thus the platforms continue to reign supreme. Now may be a good time to try one of those high-heel workouts to strengthen those legs…
- Ruffles, bows, petals, and ruching were also a theme throughout the show (no fringe, thankfully!). BCBGMax Azria had one of my favorite examples of the ruffles, but they were to be found at countless other brands.
- Well-placed studs and grommets elevated the looks of everything from boots to ballet flats
- Futuristic shapes and silhouettes that you're finding from many of the couture brands right now will also continue through Spring and into Fall but "adapted" for daily wear. It may be the heel itself, the platform (keep an eye out for "architectural platforms" where it looks like a section has been laser-cut away), or other details, but you'll notice both overt and covert architectural details.
- I came across numerous oxfords and even loafers updated (quite literally) with high heels, platforms, and thick crepe bottoms.
- Worth mentioning are the '80's overtones. From the court-shoe shapes to the one large "scallop" shape on the side of pumps, slouchy boots and softly pointed toes, you'll find a plethora of nods to this era not so known for its chic style.
So keep an eye out for those shoes with staying power – you know the ones. We'll make it to Fall in style, and if what I saw is any indication, we've got a lot to look forward to.




























February 18th, 2009 at 1:20 am
[...] over at Running With Heels also attended the WSA Show, and wrote up an exceptional piece detailing the state of footwear, and what the future may hold. ShoeBlog beautifully illustrates the trends that will be coming this fall in the article [...]
March 1st, 2009 at 8:49 pm
I have found a new GREAT show line that no longer makes our feet suffer for fashion. Dana Davis, a diabetic teamed up with an orthopediatric surgeon to design beautiful shoes that are actually great for your feet. I absolutely love them. You can check them out at DanaDavis.com hopefully this is sign of new things to come.