Spring 2009 at FFANY
Twice a year, in Spring and Fall, New York City becomes host to the majority of the footwear industry. Brands, vendors, retailers…you name the player, they're there. It's where the footwear lines for one year from now are unveiled. That's right, Spring of 2009 was on display this past week. And depending on factors like the reactions of the retailers, the Spring line gets refined so that by the end of July at WSA in Las Vegas, they are complete.
Many footwear brands are already Manhattan based or have showrooms there, so most choose to show in these or at other private locations. Most of the others will present their lines at the Hilton Hotel in Midtown with some also showing at the Flatiron Hotel. I spent this past Tuesday through Thursday traveling to and from the Hilton and a multitude of other stops and boy did I see some amazing footwear, meet some fantastic people, and was even introduced to a number of brands that were either new or new to me.
Unfortunately I will not be able to spill too many beans, but I can certainly give you a few tidbits on what trends to expect to see, and who the brands are to keep an eye out for. Remember, what is shown at FFANY is extremely sensitive material for footwear brands and designers because none of these styles are in production yet. Any pictures or exceedingly detailed descriptions could potentially put them in jeopardy of being knocked off before the brand can even get their own shoes on the shelves! (Hence the lack of pics…sorry.)
The Trends
To my delight, color continues. Think bright and bold, not unlike some of the colors we're already seeing this season, but very evocative of flowers and plants. A few really stood out like a bright pinkish/purplish berry, a strong Persian blue, lush emerald green, and even turquoise and orange. As far as something you'd find in your plants, snake skin was everywhere. Metallics are also worth a mention as gold and silver take center stage.
- Texture is big as well, with suede making its way into daytime shoes, thick cork soles as well as lots of woven elements. Cut-outs are everywhere, from intricate laser cut designs to larger shapes. Also expect to see a lot of fringe which is not the only 70's style throwback. Platforms are another ubiquitous trend and come in all shapes and sizes. Covered platforms to double platforms and especially the contoured, stacked platform that designers like YSL have made so popular.
- I saw a lot of menswear styles as well, but my favorites were by the brands that took a more feminine approach like Farylrobin and Pour la Victoire. Many of the people I spoke with mentioned that because the menswear look in clothing will be so popular, a feminine shoe will provide a nice contrast.
- Flats and gladiators are back, too, and while the gladiators haven't changed too much they seem to be morphing into a more refined take on the trend. They've also followed a natural progression into heels and I saw a lot of strappy gladiator sandals with both thin stiletto heels as well as thick, solid ones. Which reminds me, the thick heel is not over yet. It will continue in some capacity through next Spring and Summer. Perhaps I'll be a bigger fan of it by then?
The Brands
- Of the true fashion brands I saw, I definitely had my favorites. The relative new-comer daniblack had gorgeous styles all around, and I think of all the lines I really couldn't wait for this one to hit the store shelves. Full of rich hues and everything from studded pumps and sandals to painted cork wedges and intricately laser cut suede boots, there didn't seem to be a single style that I didn't like. Pour la Victoire, another newcomer, had some seriously kick-ass styles like a version of the funky-heeled Marc Jacobs pump that one can actually walk in (I saw it with my own eyes), as well as gorgeous suede, high-heeled gladiator sandals and vividly colored pumps with sculpted, conical heels. Farylrobin is another brand to keep an eye on. I must say I loved the Fall styles, the theme being ‘Rock, glam and Roll', but the Spring line was made up of beautifully crafted and totally unique styles. Kors Micheal Kors also has some drop-dead gorgeous styles which isn't too much of a surprise as it's coming off of such successful previous seasons. Color and metallics were key there with substantial wooden soles and even some really adorable patent leather, square-toed driving mocs. For dressy shoes that can make a statement or be refined at a great price point, Nina shoes made an impressive showing.
- When it comes to the brands that feature comfort as a major factor, Corso Como was definitely at the top of the list. They had some really fresh designs that were still super sexy. Sofft blew me away with their line. They've progressed into some really fashion-forward styles and made use of elements like curved heels, bright patents, and even some really adorable snakeskin gladiators!
- A few other honorable mentions are as follows: Pura Lopez, a Spanish made brand that I had heard of but wasn't extremely familiar with. The shoes are FABULOUS. Elegant, graceful, and chic, the Spring line incorporated absolutely gorgeous colors like rich plums and copper colored metallics in designs that were worthy of the red carpet. Delman shoes, whom I'm already a big fan of, didn't disappoint and for such an established brand it even seemed like they pushed the fashion envelope a little – in a good way! Also keep an eye out for their new logo which is actually a return to a previous one. Matt Bernson had a collection of beautiful sandals, (they do the gladiator right!), Butter had a strong collection, and the newbie Paco Paco Gil had some really creative, unique, and fun styles.



























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